27.08.12
I have been to Kenya 3 times now, all work and no play,
decided this time after a conference to take a bit of time out, for my own
sanity, and see more of the country.
Took a trip up north to see an island called Lamu, rarely
spoken of, used to be the hub for the Arab-Africa goods trade and also used as
a transit during the slave trade.
Mombasa is undoubtedly a tropically rich place, but my 2hr
trip to Malidi, another holiday destination on the way to Lamu, I was taken by awe
at the green lush that consumed the country. I like nature and therefore seeing
such greenery was breath-taking especially when the beach/ocean were just a walk
away – they kinda reminded me of the garden route on the way to cape town from Port
Elizabeth.
Sitting in a matatu i.e. a 14 sitter Toyota mini bus -
public taxi, the news reader on the radio station I was listening to commented
that the British monarch was apparently not impressed by Prince Harry’s naked photos
scandal, she could not understand why they were upset, she and a whole lot of
women were certainly impressed with Harry’s pants being down. I burst out with
a laughter, and could immediately feel being stared at, clearly I had broken
some kind of etiquette, so calmed myself down and stared into my phone as if it
would provide some clarity around my little confusion.
Arrived in Malindi, was dropped off in the middle of town, I
asked the nearest bus station when the next bus to Lamu is and the earliest was
at 07.00 the following day. Had to ask Alex to recommend a place to stay.
Sitting at a restaurant, I was told that normally they serve a buffet for
dinner but since there was a low turn-out of guests they’ll opt to serve me ‘a la
carte’ dinner only , didn’t mind as I don’t eat that much, so without letting
him finish his elaborate apology, I asked for rice and beef stew served passion
fruit juice, little did I imagine it would cost me 1300KHS for 3 spoons of
protein and starch each. Got into my room and realized there is no standard bottle
of water and I needed to drink my malaria pills and brush my teeth. The
essential factor was the Malaria pill and an easy method of carrying it down my
esophagus. I then remembered the bottle of red in my bag which was waiting for
Lamu’s beach, atleast the room had a bottle opener, and so I washed the pill
with gulp of wine straight from the bottle – bet all the doctors reading this
have their eyes popped out…reminded me of all those kids I used to see in Paris
walking the streets drunk with a bottle of wine/champagne in their hands as opposed
to a can of beer, thought that’s an elegant way of getting drunk or maybe just French
norm?
I was told it would take 3hrs from Malindi to Lamu, and
since the bus stopped at every little town and I wasn’t aware of its final destination,
I started asking my neighbour questions after the third hour…these fell on deaf
ears – he was either ignoring me or didn’t understand what I was saying.
Panicking, I pattered the front seater’s shoulder and reiterated my question;
‘are we near Lamu yet?’ Delicately he said he’ll let me know when we get there.
It took him an additional 2hrs before he said we had arrived.
Lamu bus stop looks like a random ‘round-about’ with shop on
the east & west of it, as you near the edge of the ‘round-about’ then you
get to see the island and sea water.
Now open water and me don’t mix, hence I haven’t learned how
to swim yet – only non-negotiable circumstances would lead me to be in a river,
lake, or an ocean. Getting to Lamu was one of those non-negotiable circumstances.
To get to the island from mainland is by boat, I had to get into a fishing boat
that looked like it carries six yet there were eleven of us…sitting at the back
next to the engine and the ‘captain’, I was alert with every turn just in-case
I needed grab onto him.
Extremely-laid-back is an expression I’d give to Lamu,
perfect vacation spot to just relax and that’s exactly what I had in mind. I
stayed at Subira house, a villa guest house with superb hosts.
One odd day I decided to take a walk from where I was
staying –old town and headed to Shela where the beach is, a good 45min relaxed
walk…if the tide is low you walk some parts on the beach itself, I wasn’t so
lucky so took some shortcuts. Discovered some castle built on the far end of
the beach and made a collection if shells.
Before I headed back, I decided to treat myself to a great
lunch at one of the islands’ most expensive hotel – Peponi! Paid for the lunch
with my credit card…LOL. After the good lunch, I walked back and got lost in
one of my shortcuts, found myself in the middle of the ‘forest’ and lost, fear
had grabbed me by the balls as there were no people anywhere. Scared, I kept on
bumping into fences indicating people’s farms. If ever there was a perfect time
to be mugged in day-light, it would have been then, with both my phones &
wallets and not knowing where I was and too full to run for it. After a while I
spotted a boy and asked him how to get to town, panting and sweating I found
the buzzing streets and walked into ‘Whispers Restaurant’ and asked for tea –
to calm my nerves. That was an experience and a half.
17.10.12
2nd time in Lamu, arrived on Sunday the 14th,
this time I took a flight – Fly540 straight from Nairobi, a 2hrs flight via
Malindi…I gotta say that turbulences in a smaller flight are terrible. I could
actually feel the pilot stepping on the brake pedals mid-air attempting to
land. I always try to sit next to the window so I can see death approaching -
in-case the engine decides to drop from the wing.
Felt like I was here just yesterday, except now I’m in the
quieter part of the island – Shela. The view from my room is great, all I
intended to do this time around was sleep through-out my stay, and did exactly
on the Monday – slept the whole day, woke up for only 4hrs which were breaks
for eating and reading.
It was the first time I’d seen low-tide in such mass scale.
Between 10am and 1pm, the sea surrounding the island just disappeared in some
places, rocks appeared in the middle of nowhere, sand emerged making the beach
seems bigger & longer, and boats had docked on empty ground.
As i headed out, I take away two things from my visit to
this island – it’s still very much ok to give without expectation to receive
and its sometimes stress free to just let your hair down i.e. travel without a
compact plan. It’s my 5th time in Kenya and I think I should try and
experience West Africa now. Nigeria is calling me and I should answer its call
eventually.
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